NOTE: I downloaded this document off the internet so long ago that I don't remember who I originally got it from. For that oversite I am truly sorry. I have only reformatted the document for HTML display. Otherwise it is as I found it.

HAGGIS

CLASSIC HAGGIS, POT HAGGIS, SCRAPPLE, PANHAUS AND FRENCH GOOSE!

I posted a discussion of Haggis, what it is and how to make it, in answer to a question to the Ethnic section. Unless you do your own sheep slaughtering you may want to skip to the final recipes, for a haggis made in a pan rather than in a stomach, or for similar dishes made from pork scraps and grains, and for "French Goose", Pennsylvania Dutch roasted stuffed pig stomach (c'mon, pig stomachs are OK! Quite mild and presentable.).

Haggis is a butchering-day dish which disposes of most the "leftover" parts at once. A classic haggis will feed MANY people even if some of them eat it!

Haggis is gross but tasty, if you like mutton and if you like liver. If you want to present a less --umm, earthy-- haggis in a traditional way, buy a hog maw (stomach) at whatever store near you caters to other than the steak-and-TV-dinner shopper, use the cut-down recipe for "Pot Haggis" which follows the unabridged version, stuff it into the hog maw and boil or braise. Or, use beef tripe --sometimes you can find a pouch of it but you can roll and sew a flat piece. I used to do it myself because getting the temperature right to get the inside skin to slip from the sheep tripe is so tricky --that's all been done when you buy tripe. A hog maw needs only to be washed and maybe scrubbed with salt and rinsed.

The haggis recipes are from "Recipes from Scotland" by F. Marian McNeill, a small red plaid-covered book printed 11 times between 1946 and 1972 by Albyn Press, Edinburgh, and very likely still in print in Scotland.

The scrapple/panhaus recipes are how I made it, but my inspiration was the pig-butchering Bible, the USDA Farmers' Bulletin 2265 which is a direct reprint of all the early ones and still the best basis for learning to make sausage, head cheese, ham, bacon, and so on.

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CLASSIC HAGGIS

In addition to the insides of the sheep you will need 1/2 lb fresh beef suet, 2 or 3 onions, and about a cup of fine (quick-cook or steel-cut) oatmeal, toasted in the oven.

When you butcher a sheep the first thing you do is take the "pluck" -- liver, lungs (lights) and heart which all pull out together. Also, take the rumen which is the large stomach bag, empty, turn inside out, and hose and scrub, then scald it in a big pot of not-quite-boiling water and peel and scrape out the green inside skin. Soak it in cold salt water while you cook the rest.

Wash out the real stomach, turned inside out (like the reader's about now), cover it and the pluck with cold water, and simmer about two hours. The windpipe hangs out over the rim of the pot where it will belch entertainingly as the air in the lungs expands ("to let any impurities pass out freely", says Mrs. MacNeill), also droop into the flame and scorch if it possibly can.

Then, trim everything but the pure meat away and grind or mince the meat and onions finely (use only half the liver). Mix in the suet and toasted oatmeal; season with salt and "plenty of black pepper" (MacNeill says), and a pinch of cayenne. Then mix in some of the cooking broth so it's rather wet --too sloppy for turkey dressing, for instance. Next fill the cleaned tripe (rumen) bag about 1/2 full, press out the air, sew up well, and put in a big pot of fast-boiling water. The bag shrinks and the stuffing swells so you have to stick holes in it with an icepick when it starts to swell or it will burst --like any sausage. Boil "slowly but steadily" for three hours (about). Slice across the whole thing to serve.

This makes a lot of haggis, which doesn't keep real well, so I cheat as follows. (I'm not a lung enthusiast so left them out after the first time anyway. They don't have a whole lot of flavor and the texture is like overcooked plastic packing peanuts.)

POT HAGGIS

(I only ever used sheep/lamb organs because it's a thing you do when you butcher, but I expect you could substitute). I can't tell you how many servings because you have someone in your family that won't touch it, same if you serve it to company. A loaf pan full. You need about:

1/2 lb lamb liver

1 - 2 lamb hearts

(1/2 - 1 lb decent lamb meat, like stew from the neck or shoulder)

2 med onions (peeled)

Simmer in salted water just to cover; start the hearts first by about 1/2 hr. Cook about 1 hr total, or until the liver firms up and the stew meat is getting tender. Take the onions out while still firm, and chop fine all the meats and the onion. (If you use the food processor do a little at a time and WATCH IT. Quit while it's still chunks.) Meanwhile you have toasted a cup of (fine, like steel-cut or quick-cooking) oatmeal and chopped up 1/2 cup of beef suet (I cheated with fat salt pork I think), so now add it to the meats. Add enough of the broth to moisten, pack in a bowl, cover with foil that you tie down with string, put it on a rack in a deep pot, fill the pot about halfway up the bowl with boiling water, and steam for 2 hours.

(I cheated here too, by packing it in a glass bread pan with the foil cover, and baking in a slow oven (275?) in a bigger pan with water in.)

I don't know why you couldn't leave out the liver if you want. I liked it best sliced and browned in the frying pan, like scrapple.

 

SCRAPPLE AND PANHAUS

 

A pig was a much more common butcher animal than a sheep in most parts of this country, so we find much the same sort of dish made with pig parts. I like the flavor and texture of meat from the head in scrapple, and in here in Central CA we see heads with the jowls trimmed off, snouts, tails, ears, feet, and maws in the supermarket at the times when a lot of migratory workers are present; markets which cater to Blacks or Asians may also have some of these tasty glutinous goodies as well as neck bones, kidney, heart, and liver.

The jowl will make the scrapple very fat --cut it off and salt it down for salt pork or use a couple feet instead. Some recipes even call for just meat from neckbones.

Scrapple freezes well --if you find you like it you could use a half head, about an equal weight of neck bones, and whatever you like in the way of liver, heart, or kidney. Heart is lean and has a meat flavor and

texture; if you're not sure about liver get a small slice, cook separately, and add to a small part of the mixed scrapple. You don't have to be a great liver fan to like scrapple with liver.

 

You will also need grain meal and flour to thicken the scrapple. Really the cereal is whatever you like the taste and texture of, but you probably need some flour so it will slice. Try about a cup of cornmeal or Bear Mush (very fine cracked wheat) cereal to 1/2 cup buckwheat flour.

You can also grind some onion in with the meat -- 1/2 to one onion is plenty.

The other seasonings are salt, pepper, and possibly pinches of sage, mace, and nutmeg; also you may add a sprinkle of cayenne.

 

Boil the meats in water to cover until you can slip the meat from the bone. You may add salt, peppercorns, bay leaf, and blades of mace for the cooking --salt lightly as you will be cooking again.

Take the meat off the bone and grind (again, if you use a food processor do a small amount at a time and don't puree it. The meat should be no finer than hamburger).

Use about as much broth as meat and about half as much cereal as broth (as if you were making mush). Wet the cereal down with some of the broth and bring the rest to the boil, then add the cereal --slowly, stirring-- and the meat. Cook and stir and taste and season; when it's nice and thick so a bursting bubble leaves a crater, pour it into a lasagna pan or loaf pans and chill, then cut into bars, wrap and freeze the extra. About 3" square is a good size to fry.

Fry the scrapple in about 1/4" of good fat (like bacon grease), quickly. Part of what holds it together is gelatin from the meat so you want the outside to form a crust before it melts. Non-purists often dip it in egg first, or egg and flour or cornmeal. (If it positively insists on melting rather than frying you'll just have to unwrap it all and cook it some more, and next time use more meal).

 

Panhaus is the leftover broth above, cooked with cornmeal and/or buckwheat groats or flour, and is sliced and fried also. The broth from cooking pig parts is not very good for soup or plain eating; homemade tamales are the Mexican version of the above recipes I suppose, with masa instead of buckwheat.

 

FRENCH GOOSE

(ROASTED PIG'S STOMACH)

THIS recipe is from Good Earth Country & Cooking, by Betty Groff and Jose Wilson. (Stackpole, 1974, ISBN 0-8117-0737-7) I only remember making it once (so many cookbooks and only one stomach!) but everything she says about it is true. It would be a fun dish for a buffet.

"French Goose was my mother's name for stuffed, roasted pig's stomach, a very old Pennsylvania Dutch recipe... The sausage flavoring goes through the vegetables, and the trick is in cutting them so they are all different shapes and sizes --rounds of carrot, half-moon slices of celery, and diced potatoes-- then when you slice it you have a pretty, colorful kind of design. {At the Wednesday night dinners} I get aaway with it by not telling the guests what they are going to have, just bringing in the roasted stomach sliced. Once they taste it, they love it. ...If you can't get a pig's stomach.. [use] a roaster bag, ...piercing the bottom in a couple of places to let the fat out.

1 pig's stomach

2 lb fresh pork sausage meat

2 lb white potatoes, peeled and diced

8 medium stalks of celery, sliced crosswise

1/2 lb carrots, peeled and sliced

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 small onion, chopped fine (optional)

1 tsp salt [I omit because sausage is salted]

freshly ground pepper

Wash the pig's stomach well. Combine the sausage meat, vegetables, and

seasonings, mixing well. Stuff the pig's stomach wth this mixture, stuffing it as tightly and full as you can. Close the openings with baking nails [turkey lacers] and string.

Place the stuffed stomach on a rack in a covered roaster and bake in a 350 degree oven for approximately 3 hours. Remove roaster cover and baste roast with the drippings that have oozed out. Increase oven heat to 375 degrees and cook until golden brown, about 20 minutes. To serve, put on a board or platter and cut in 2-inch-thick slices --no thinner, or it will fall apart.